Merino Wool vs Alpaca Wool

Hello! Have you ever worked with merino wool or alpaca wool? If so, have you thought about the differences and similarities between these two yarns? In this blog post I'm going to chat about both types of yarn and help you make an informed choice for your next crochet project.

Merino wool and alpaca wool are both soft, lightweight, and warm fibres that can be used to crochet or knit clothing, blankets, and accessories.

Did you know that both merino and alpaca wool are hypoallergenic, making them a good choice for people with sensitive skin? This is something I only just discovered when researching this topic! There are, however, some key differences to note between the two fibres.

Merino wool comes from the wool of Merino sheep, which were originally native to Australia. The wool has excellent moisture-wicking properties making it a good choice for activewear. Sweat is drawn to the outside of the fabric, making it easier to evaporate. It's also more water resistant than alpaca wool and is generally considered to be finer and softer, but on the downside it's not as warm.

Alpaca wool is made from the wool of alpacas, which were originally native to South America. Alpacas are raised on highland pastures, which are not suitable for other types of agriculture which makes the wool an eco-friendly choice - the farming does not contribute to deforestation or other forms of land degradation.  Alpaca wool is superior for insulating, making it a good choice for cold weather clothing.

These points only cover the various properties of each of the yarns, so let's have a look at how each one looks and handles when crocheted or knitted.

Merino wool fibres are thinner and smoother, which gives the finished item fantastic stitch definition. Garments made in merino are less likely to become wet and uncomfortable, making them an excellent choice for outer layers. Merino wool is generally more durable than alpaca wool, meaning that items knitted or crocheted in merino are less likely to pill or become damaged over time.

Alpaca wool feels softer and more luxurious than merino. It has a wonderful drape to it when crocheted or knitted up; it simply flows beautifully! The finished items will be warmer to wear than their merino counterparts. The stitch definition is not as sharp as merino wool, so depending on your pattern this might be an issue.

 

Ultimately, the best fibre for you depends on your individual needs and preferences. Whether you're crocheting or knitting - they are slightly different depending on which you're doing. Have you already got a favourite? Leave me a comment and let me know! 

Personally, I couldn't choose between the two fibres! I've crocheted, knitted and designed with them both.

Here are two of my patterns, one crocheted in each! 

The photo above is of my Elsie Beanie and you can see how well the pattern shows the stitch definition. I love the way the stitches shine! This hat is crocheted in rows of linked half trebles and worked sideways before being sewn up and a faux fur pompom is added to complete the look. You can find Elsie Beanie on my website here and on Ravelry here.

 

 

The second photo is my Barista Beanie which was originally published back in 2018 although it has only been added to my website this week. It's crocheted in alpaca wool and it's the most squishy hat I've ever made! . You can find Barista Beanie on my website here and on Ravelry here.

I hope this has given you some insight into merino wool and alpaca wool. Please do check out my crochet patterns and see what you think.

Until next time, happy crocheting,

Marta xx

Yarn delivery from Eden Cottage Yarns

Earlier today I was really excited to come home from my grocery shop and find my order from Eden Cottage Yarns had arrived! The shopping was all flung to one side as I tore open the outer packaging straight away. Inside the wool had been carefully wrapped up in brown paper bags with the pretty Eden Cottage Yarns logo - all snug and perfect!

On opening further, I immediately fell in love with the baby alpaca wool - it is incredibly soft and delicate. I ordered the yarn because I plan to use it for the #BackToSchoolSweaterCal starting this Saturday. This CAL (short for crochet-along) has been organised by Tamara (craftyescapism.com) and Helen (makingatnumber14.blogspot.co.uk) and is a great way to encourage everyone to crochet a sweater (jumper) or cardigan between now and Christmas. A blog hop has been organised to accompany the CAL and it will take you on a journey via the participants blogs, finding out about all sorts of differnt aspects of garment making, starting with Tamara on Saturday (see link above). Helen approached me back in early summer, asking if I would like to be involved with this project and of course I was super keen to hop on board!! I will be writing 2 blog posts: the first in October will be all about designing a garment and my second will be in November with an update on my personal crocheted sweater progress.

For the CAL, I decided that I wanted to create a warm, winter version of my own design - Summer Cardigan. As well as changing the yarn from summery cotton to cosy alpaca I will be altering the fit to make it a more close fitting, snug cardigan. I have chosen Eden Cottage Yarns Whitfell DK which is a beautifully soft baby alpaca yarn and I can't wait to get started! The colours will be totally different too - the main colour will be dark brown "Ebony" and the colourful yoke will be in "Laburnum", "Fuchsia" and "Natural". My first step will be to work up a swatch and see how the yarn behaves in comparison with my original cotton design. From this point I will calculate my guage and sizing and the rest should fall into place ...

Anyone else joining in this CAL? Leave a comment below if you are!

Happy hooking,

Marta xx

Agnes the Bunny - a free amigurumi crochet pattern

I am really happy to be able to share this amigurumi crochet pattern pattern with you here. I began writing this pattern in February 2016 in the hope of having it finalised in time for Easter that year (you can read my blog post from the time here). However, I got swept up in other projects, Easter and spring came and went and the project was put on hold. Earlier this year I became an auntie for the first time! I now have a little neice called Agnes and inspired by her beautiful name I decided to remake the bunny using alpaca wool, with a view to releasing the pattern in time for Easter, and here it is!

With her baby alpaca fur and her Liberty Tana Lawn cotton ears, Agnes is the softest, most luxurious bunny ever! She is crocheted using amigurumi techniques and all her cute little details are hand stitched after she has been sewn together.

This pattern is rated BEGINNER level.

You will need ...

1x 100g skein of Juniper Moon Farm extrafine baby alpaca in Bullrush (200m per 100g, DK weight)

10x10cm piece of Liberty Tana Lawn cotton in Felicite (for ears)

3mm crochet hook

scrap of contrast yarn or stitch marker

2 small, vintage shell buttons (for eyes)

green sewing thread (for eyes)

terracotta coloured embroidery thread (for sewing nose and mouth)

small piece of mint coloured wool felt (for mouth)

needle (for thread)

tapestry needle (for sewing body parts together)

toy stuffing

Finished Size and Tension

The stuffed bunny is 34cm from tip of ears to toes. Tension should be tight for making amigurumi, you may need to switch to a 2.5mm hook. The stuffed head should be about 6.5cm diameter (top tip; you could use the head as a tension guide).

Abbreviations (UK terms)

ch chain

ss slip stitch

dc double crochet

dc2tog double crochet 2 stitches together (see notes)

beg begin

rep repeat

dec decrease

inc increase

htr half treble

Tr treble

trCl treble cluster (see notes)

yo yarn over

RS right side

Notes

I have given instructions for both the magic loop method and the chain 2 method of starting - choose whichever you are most comfortable with. Here is a useful link to the magic loop method http://www.simplycrochetmag.co.uk/2014/10/20/make-magic-loop/

For the head pattern I have staggered the increases to avoid the hexagonal look which standard amigurumi methods create. I have not done so for the body because it is less noticeable.

Invisible decreases are another of the crochet techniques I like to use in my patterns because it creates such a smooth and flawless look. Where I have indicated dc2tog; insert hook through front loop only (flo) of 1st stitch to be decreased (2 loops on hook), do not yarn over, insert hook through flo of 2nd stitch to be decreased (3 loops on hook), yo, pull through 2 loops (2 loops left on hook) yo, pull through both loops. 1 invisible decrease made. If you are new to crochet and want to keep things simple, dc2tog in the standard way. Here’s a link to blog post with photo tutorial - it uses the US term single crochet to describe the UK double crochet stitch but the photos are so clear this shouldn’t matter http://www.allaboutami.com/invisibledecrease/

A treble cluster (trCl) is used to create the thumb; a group of 3 trebles joined closely at the top. To make a trCl work each of the trebles up to the last yo, pull through needed to complete it (4 loops on hook), yo, pull through all loops on hook. 1trCl made.

With the exception of the ears, which are worked in rows, all the other parts are crocheted in the round in the amigurumi style (ie. no ch1/ ss at the beginning of rounds). All the body parts are made separately and sewn together.

I hope you enjoy following this pattern. Look out for more free patterns at mrsdaftspaniel.blogspot.co.uk Follow me on Instagram @mrsdaftspaniel  and tag your work with #mrsdaftspaniel

Pattern

Head worked from nose to back of head

Start with either a magic ring with 6dc worked into it or ch2, 6dc into 2nd chain from hook

Round 1 (inc) 2 dc in each dc. (12dc)

Round 2 (inc) (1dc in next dc, 2dc in next dc) 6 times. (18dc)

Round 3 (inc) 1dc in 1st dc, (2dc in next dc, 1dc in each of next 2dc) 5 times, 2dc in next dc, 1dc in last dc. (24dc)

Round 4 (inc) (1dc in each of next 3dc, 2 dc in next dc) 6 times. (30dc)

Round 5 (inc) 1dc in 1st 2dc, (2dc in next dc, 1dc in each of next 4dc) 5 times, 2dc in next dc, 1dc in each of next 2dc. (36dc)

Round 6 (inc) (1dc in each of next 5dc, 2 dc in next dc) 6  times. (42dc)

Round 7 (inc) 1dc in 1st 3dc, (1dc in next 6dc, 2 dc in next dc) 5 times 2dc in next dc, 1dc in each of next 3dc. (48dc)

Rounds 8 -10 1dc in each dc around.

Round 11 (dec) (1dc in each of next 6dc, dc2tog) 6 times. (42dc)

Round 12 (dec) 1dc in each of next 2dc, dc2tog, (1dc in each of next 5dc, dc2tog) 5 times, 1dc in each of next 3dc. (36dc)

Round 13 (dec) (1dc in each of next 4dc, dc2tog) 6  times (30dc)

Round 14 (dec) 1dc in 1st dc, dc2tog, (1dc in each of next 3dc, dc2tog) 5 times, 1dc in each of next 2dc. (24dc)

Round 15 (dec) 1dc in each of next 2dc, dc2tog) 6 times (18dc)

Stuff head with toy stuffing.

Round 16 (dec) (1dc in next 1dc, dc2tog) 6  times (12dc)

Add a little more toy stuffing if necessary.

Round 17 (dec) dc2tog around (6dc)

Finish off leaving long tail for sewing up. Pull through stitch on hook to finish off. Using tapestry needle, weave in and out of remaining stitches, pull tight to close hole.

Body worked from bottom upwards

Start with either a magic ring with 6dc worked into it or ch2, 6dc into 2nd chain from hook

Round 1 (inc) 2 dc in each dc (12dc)

Round 2 (inc) (1dc in next dc, 2dc in next dc) 6 times (18dc)

Round 3 (inc) (1dc in next 2dc, 2dc in next dc) 6 times (24dc)

Round 4 (inc) (1dc in next 3dc, 2 dc in next dc) 6 times (30dc)

Round 5 (inc) (1dc in next 4dc, 2 dc in next dc) 6 times (36dc)

Rounds 6 - 10 1dc into each dc around

Round 7 (dec) (1dc into each of next 4dc, dc2tog) 3 times, 1dc in each of next 18dc (33dc)

Round 8 1dc into each dc around

Round 9 (dec) (1dc into each of next 3dc, dc2tog) 3 times, 1dc in each of next 18dc (30dc)

Round 10 1dc into each dc around

Round 11 (dec) (1dc into each of next 2dc, dc2tog) 3 times, 1dc in each of next 18dc (27dc)

Round 12 1dc into each dc around

Round 13 (dec) (1dc into 1st dc, dc2tog) 3 times, 1dc in each of next 18dc (24dc)

Rounds 14 - 18 1dc into each dc around

Round 19 (dec) (1dc in each of next 2dc, dc2tog) 6 times (18dc)

Rounds 20 - 23 1dc into each dc around.

Finish off leaving a long length of yarn to attach body onto head. Stuff tightly. Sew securely to head.

Arms (make 2) worked from hands upwards

Start with either a magic ring with 6dc worked into it, or ch2, 6dc into 2nd chain from hook

Round 1 (inc) 2 dc in each dc (12dc)

Round 2 (inc) (1dc into each of next 3dc, 2dc in next dc) 3 times (15dc)

Round 3 1trCl in 1st dc, ch1 (thumb made), 1dc in each of next 14dc.

Round 4 1dc in trCl, miss ch1, 1dc in each of next 14dc.

Round 5 1dc into each dc around

Round 6 (dec) (1dc in each of next 3dc, dc2tog) 3 times (12dc)

Round 7 1dc into each dc around

Round 8 (dec)  (1dc in next dc, dc2tog) 4 times (8dc)

Stuff hand tightly.

Rounds 7 - 11 1dc into each dc around.

Loosely stuff arm, it should be floppy.

Rounds 12 -18 1dc into each dc around.

Do not add more stuffing. Pinch top of arm closed. Work 3dc across top of arm joining both sides together.

Finish off leaving long tail for sewing up. Sew the arms to the body close to the neck.

Legs (make 2) worked from feet upwards

Start with either a magic ring with 6dc worked into it, or ch2, 6dc into 2nd chain from hook

Round 1 (inc) 2 dc in each dc. (12dc)

Round 2 (inc) (1dc in next dc, 2dc in next dc) 6 times. (18dc)

Rounds 3 - 6  1dc into each dc around.

Round 7 (dec)  (1dc in next dc, dc2tog) 3 times, 1dc in each of next 9dc. (15dc)

Round 8 1dc into each dc around.

Round 9 (1dc in next dc, dc2tog) 3 times, 1dc in of next 6dc. (12dc)

Round 10 1dc into each dc around

Round 11 (1dc in next dc, dc2tog) 2 times, 1dc in of next 6dc. (10dc)

Round 12 1dc into each dc around

Round 13 1dc in each of 1st 2dc, dc2tog, 1dc in of next 6dc. (9dc)

Stuff foot tightly.

Rounds 14 - 21 1dc into each dc around

Finish off leaving a long length of yarn to sew leg onto body. Stuff lightly. Sew securely to body.

Tail

Start with either a magic ring with 6dc worked into it or ch2, 6dc into 2nd chain from hook

Round 1 (inc) 2 dc in each dc (12dc)

Round 2 (inc) (1dc in next dc, 2dc in next dc) 6 times (18dc)

Rounds 3 - 4 1dc into each dc around

Round 5 (dec) (1dc in next 1dc, dc2tog) 6  times (12dc)

Finish off leaving a long length of yarn. Stuff tail with toy stuffing. Sew the tail to the body.

Ears (make 4; 2x inner ear, 2x outer ear)

Row 1 (RS) Ch17, 1dc into 2nd ch from hook, 1dc in each of next 10ch, 1htr in each of next 4ch, 3htr in last ch, keeping RS facing turn ear to work into the other side of the chains: 1htr in each of next 4ch, 1dc in each dc to end. Turn. (22dc, 11htr = 33st)

Row 2 Ch1, 1dc in each of next 4dc, 1htr in each of next 7st, 1tr in each of next 3st, 2tr in each of next 5htr, 1tr in each of next 3st, 1htr in each of next 7st, 1dc in each dc to end. Turn.  (8dc, 14htr 16tr = 38st)

After finishing Row 2 on 2nd and 4th ears, do not cut yarn. Place inner ear and outer together with RS facing each other (I personally find the wrong side looks neater, you may wish to experiment for yourself!). Working into both inner and outer ear, dc together (this side is now RS). Finish off leaving a long length of yarn.

With new RS facing down, draw around the ear onto the back of your Liberty Tana Lawn cotton. Cut out, 4mm in from the line. Check it for size, trim some more if necessary. Top tip; draw around and cut each ear separately to avoid symmetry - your finished bunny will look more natural. Sew to new RS of ear using neat, small stitches. Pinch base of ear together and sew together using a few tight stitches. Using the photo as a guide sew the ears to the head.

Finishing Details

Using the photo as a guide, sew 2 buttons on for eyes. Cut the muzzle shape out of felt and sew using embroidery thread onto the head using small stitches. Sew a few satin stitches for the nose. Sew small stitches for the mouth. If you are feeling creative why not make your bunny a cute Liberty dress!

I hope you enjoyed following this pattern.

Look out for more free patterns at mrsdaftspaniel.blogspot.co.uk

Follow me on Instagram @mrsdaftspaniel  and tag your work with #mrsdaftspaniel