Happy Scrappy Blanket Instructions

Hello everyone! I'm starting this year's blogging off with the FREE instructions to crochet your very own happy scrappy blanket! Does that sound good? This is a blanket I began making last summer, working just a few rows at a time as the mood took me and allowing it to gradually grow as scraps of sock yarn became available from knitted or crocheted sock and shawl projects. I'm using the term "instructions" rather than "pattern" because I'm simply going to give basic information for you to use and make this project your own.

So, what do you need? Lots and lots of scraps and odd balls of sock weight yarn. If, like me, you are addicted to knitting or crocheting socks and shawls you will know how quickly these leftovers mount up and it seems a shame to leave them and not turn them into something beautiful. Of course, this blanket would work in thicker or thinner yarn too - simply adjust the number of chains at the start. If you don't have a stash of scrap yarn you could always skip the collecting stage and buy sock minis, many indie yarn dyers sell these (I caved and treated myself to 1 or 2 pretty skeins such as this one below from Lichen and Lace which I bought from Loop London).

UK terms and standard UK abbreviations.

Using the appropriate hook for the thickness of your yarn, begin by chaining a load of chains to the length you would like the width of your blanket to be. Chain a multiple of 6 + 4 (I chained 184, my finished blanket is 90cm across excluding border). 

Turn, 2tr in 4th ch from hook, (miss 2ch, 1dc in next ch, miss 2ch, 5tr in next ch) across to last 6ch, miss 2ch, 1dc in next ch, miss 2ch, 3tr in last ch. Cut yarn.

Row 1. RS facing, join new yarn in top of ch3 at beginning of last row (ch1, 1dc in same sp), miss 2tr, (5tr in next dc, miss 2tr, 1dc in next tr, miss 2tr) across row to last 3tr, miss 2tr, 1dc in last tr. Cut yarn.

Row 2. RS facing, join new yarn in 1st dc of Row 1 (ch3, 2tr in same sp), (miss 2tr, 1dc in next tr, miss 2tr, 5tr in next dc) across to last 6st, miss 2tr, 1dc in next tr, miss 2tr, 3tr in last dc. Cut yarn.

Rows 1 and 2 form the pattern, just keep going until your blanket is half the length you would like it to be. Next, with RS still facing, you are going to work into your chain stitches and begin crocheting out in the opposite direction. You can begin this stage at any time, I liked to work on both ends simultaneously.

RS facing, join yarn in 1st ch (ch3, 2tr) in same sp, (miss 2ch, 1dc in next ch, miss 2ch, 5tr in next ch) across to last 6ch, miss 2ch, 1dc in next ch, miss 2ch, 3tr in last ch. Cut yarn.

Continue as before, repeating Rows 1 and 2 until you have the same number of rows each side of your foundation chain (or perhaps do 1/3 in one direction, 2/3 in the other - the possibilities are endless here, I'm simply giving you a starting point). For reference, I worked 68 rows (57cm) in each direction.

Once you have crocheted the blanket to the size you're happy with, it's time to an add the side borders - these edgings really bring the blanket to life!

RS facing, beginning in either top left corner, join yarn into the side of the last tr created (ch1, 2dc) in side of tr, (ch1, 1dc in side of next dc, ch1, 1dc in side of next tr) across to end. Cut yarn.

Row 1, RS facing, join new yarn in 1st dc, (miss 1dc, ch1, 1dc in chsp) across to last dc, 1dc in last dc. Cut yarn.

Row 2. RS facing, join new yarn in 1st dc of Row 1, (1dc in chsp, miss 1dc, ch1) across to lastdc, 1dc in last dc. Cut yarn.

Work Rows 1 and 2 until you are happy with the width (I did 13 rows on each side).

To finish off the blanket I went right around the whole blanket in crab stitch (also known as reverse double crochet) to give a slightly weighted corded edging. You could simply go round with dc stitches if you wanted - or any other variation. I would love to see how you interpret these basic instructions and make them your very own. You can email your photos to martasecocrafts@gmail.com or share them on Instagram, tagging me @marta.mitchell.designs and using the #marta.mitchell.designs hashtag - please help share the love! Also, if you enjoy this pattern you can find lots more of my patterns on Ravelry and Lovecrafts.

Until next time (I'll try not to leave it too long this time!),

Marta xx

"Are your crochet patterns suitable for beginners?"

YES! Many of my crochet patterns are suitable for beginners! It's a question which people frequently ask me, so in this blog post I'm going to share with you which of my crochet patterns are suitable for beginners.

how best  to wear your This Way,
That Way scarf 

I designed my This Way, That Way scarft with the beginner in mind - it only requires double crochet (UK terms). There are ridges running along the length of this reversible scarf, created by changing between working into the front loop and back loop of the stitches, but don't worry - the pattern includes a step-by-step tutorial to keep you right! It's a unisex design which can be made in your own combination of colours in chunky yarn. The pattern is available in UK and US terms.

Calunna Hills cowl

Slightly more challenging, but still with a beginner rating, is my Calunna Hills cowl. It requires just a few simple stitches to create this stunning wave effect. Once you have crocheted a few rows the pattern is repeated and it's easy to remember and get into a routine with. It's available in both UK and US terms.

Jute Plant Pot Cosy

My Jute Plant Pot Cosy pattern is super simple and works up fast in Hoooked 100% natural jute. The finished cosy has a raw, chunky quality which heightens the lush greenery of any plant placed in it. This free pattern can easily be adapted to suit whatever size of plant pot you have.

Small Flower

My Small Flower pattern includes a step-by-step photo tutorial and a chart alongside the full written instructions. You will need to know how to make a magic loop but there are plenty of YouTube videos to keep you right on that! This project is perfect for using up small amounts of left over yarn in any thickness and the flowers can be used to decorate all kinds of things! It's also another of my free patterns! 

Easy Wrist Warmers

Another simple beginners project is my Easy Wrist Warmers pattern - a free Ravelry downoad. There are only a few basic stitches required and the pattern works up quickly giving you an achievable finished item that you can show off to friends and family!

The final pattern I would like to share with you is Zig Zag scarf pattern. It is a super simple stitch repeat which works up really fast! there is an easy to follow chart included with the pattern and it's available in both UK and US terms.

Wow! Six beginner level patterns to choose from! And, once you've mastered a few basic crochet stitches, become more confident with your hook & yarn and learnt to follow a pattern you will be ready to move on to intermediate level patterns. I'm now including charts or video tutorials (or both!) with all my crochet patterns (and going back and adding them to older patterns) because I know they can really help people visualise how the pattern works. If you have any questions relating to my patterns please leave a comment below or send me a message on Instagram (@marta.mitchell.designs)

Until next time,

Marta xx

Free Pattern Release: Heart Shaped Bunting

Hello! Today I am really pleased to be releasing my pattern for Heart Shaped Bunting - and the best thing for all you crochet fans out there? It's FREE!

Heart Shaped Bunting

I wrote this pattern in the summer of 2017 as an exclusive for Crate Crochet's subscription box. Crate Crochet are based in Australia and they deliver mystery boxes through your letterbox with a pattern and the yarn you need to make the item featured as well as a few other goodies - it's a wonderful idea! I have collaborated with Carmela at Crate Crochet on 3 occassions now and I have found it very rewarding, not only because of the coverage it gives me as a designer but due to the lovely, welcoming Facebook Group which she has formed. I love being involved in this project!

bunting hanging in the garden

So, after this period as an exclusive Crate Crochet design I can now release the pattern into the wild and have decided to make it a free pattern as a first Friday in September treat! Today my eldest son, Niall, helped me update my YouTube video with the tutorial for the back back loop stitch. We filmed this together back in October but the lighting was poor and Niall now has a better camera and microphone so I was keen to reshoot it. Today's video was fun to make - my parents' dog is in it, his head on the table in front of me, just out of focus! You can find it here.

My favourite platform for buying and selling patterns is Ravelry.com and this is where you can download the pattern for FREE: https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/heart-shaped-bunting

close up!

I hope you enjoy following thi pattern! If you do, please share your creations on social media, particularly Instagram where you can add the hashtag #mrsdaftspaniel for me to see and for the chance to be featured in my Insta gallery!

Marta xx

Agnes the Bunny - a free amigurumi crochet pattern

I am really happy to be able to share this amigurumi crochet pattern pattern with you here. I began writing this pattern in February 2016 in the hope of having it finalised in time for Easter that year (you can read my blog post from the time here). However, I got swept up in other projects, Easter and spring came and went and the project was put on hold. Earlier this year I became an auntie for the first time! I now have a little neice called Agnes and inspired by her beautiful name I decided to remake the bunny using alpaca wool, with a view to releasing the pattern in time for Easter, and here it is!

With her baby alpaca fur and her Liberty Tana Lawn cotton ears, Agnes is the softest, most luxurious bunny ever! She is crocheted using amigurumi techniques and all her cute little details are hand stitched after she has been sewn together.

This pattern is rated BEGINNER level.

You will need ...

1x 100g skein of Juniper Moon Farm extrafine baby alpaca in Bullrush (200m per 100g, DK weight)

10x10cm piece of Liberty Tana Lawn cotton in Felicite (for ears)

3mm crochet hook

scrap of contrast yarn or stitch marker

2 small, vintage shell buttons (for eyes)

green sewing thread (for eyes)

terracotta coloured embroidery thread (for sewing nose and mouth)

small piece of mint coloured wool felt (for mouth)

needle (for thread)

tapestry needle (for sewing body parts together)

toy stuffing

Finished Size and Tension

The stuffed bunny is 34cm from tip of ears to toes. Tension should be tight for making amigurumi, you may need to switch to a 2.5mm hook. The stuffed head should be about 6.5cm diameter (top tip; you could use the head as a tension guide).

Abbreviations (UK terms)

ch chain

ss slip stitch

dc double crochet

dc2tog double crochet 2 stitches together (see notes)

beg begin

rep repeat

dec decrease

inc increase

htr half treble

Tr treble

trCl treble cluster (see notes)

yo yarn over

RS right side

Notes

I have given instructions for both the magic loop method and the chain 2 method of starting - choose whichever you are most comfortable with. Here is a useful link to the magic loop method http://www.simplycrochetmag.co.uk/2014/10/20/make-magic-loop/

For the head pattern I have staggered the increases to avoid the hexagonal look which standard amigurumi methods create. I have not done so for the body because it is less noticeable.

Invisible decreases are another of the crochet techniques I like to use in my patterns because it creates such a smooth and flawless look. Where I have indicated dc2tog; insert hook through front loop only (flo) of 1st stitch to be decreased (2 loops on hook), do not yarn over, insert hook through flo of 2nd stitch to be decreased (3 loops on hook), yo, pull through 2 loops (2 loops left on hook) yo, pull through both loops. 1 invisible decrease made. If you are new to crochet and want to keep things simple, dc2tog in the standard way. Here’s a link to blog post with photo tutorial - it uses the US term single crochet to describe the UK double crochet stitch but the photos are so clear this shouldn’t matter http://www.allaboutami.com/invisibledecrease/

A treble cluster (trCl) is used to create the thumb; a group of 3 trebles joined closely at the top. To make a trCl work each of the trebles up to the last yo, pull through needed to complete it (4 loops on hook), yo, pull through all loops on hook. 1trCl made.

With the exception of the ears, which are worked in rows, all the other parts are crocheted in the round in the amigurumi style (ie. no ch1/ ss at the beginning of rounds). All the body parts are made separately and sewn together.

I hope you enjoy following this pattern. Look out for more free patterns at mrsdaftspaniel.blogspot.co.uk Follow me on Instagram @mrsdaftspaniel  and tag your work with #mrsdaftspaniel

Pattern

Head worked from nose to back of head

Start with either a magic ring with 6dc worked into it or ch2, 6dc into 2nd chain from hook

Round 1 (inc) 2 dc in each dc. (12dc)

Round 2 (inc) (1dc in next dc, 2dc in next dc) 6 times. (18dc)

Round 3 (inc) 1dc in 1st dc, (2dc in next dc, 1dc in each of next 2dc) 5 times, 2dc in next dc, 1dc in last dc. (24dc)

Round 4 (inc) (1dc in each of next 3dc, 2 dc in next dc) 6 times. (30dc)

Round 5 (inc) 1dc in 1st 2dc, (2dc in next dc, 1dc in each of next 4dc) 5 times, 2dc in next dc, 1dc in each of next 2dc. (36dc)

Round 6 (inc) (1dc in each of next 5dc, 2 dc in next dc) 6  times. (42dc)

Round 7 (inc) 1dc in 1st 3dc, (1dc in next 6dc, 2 dc in next dc) 5 times 2dc in next dc, 1dc in each of next 3dc. (48dc)

Rounds 8 -10 1dc in each dc around.

Round 11 (dec) (1dc in each of next 6dc, dc2tog) 6 times. (42dc)

Round 12 (dec) 1dc in each of next 2dc, dc2tog, (1dc in each of next 5dc, dc2tog) 5 times, 1dc in each of next 3dc. (36dc)

Round 13 (dec) (1dc in each of next 4dc, dc2tog) 6  times (30dc)

Round 14 (dec) 1dc in 1st dc, dc2tog, (1dc in each of next 3dc, dc2tog) 5 times, 1dc in each of next 2dc. (24dc)

Round 15 (dec) 1dc in each of next 2dc, dc2tog) 6 times (18dc)

Stuff head with toy stuffing.

Round 16 (dec) (1dc in next 1dc, dc2tog) 6  times (12dc)

Add a little more toy stuffing if necessary.

Round 17 (dec) dc2tog around (6dc)

Finish off leaving long tail for sewing up. Pull through stitch on hook to finish off. Using tapestry needle, weave in and out of remaining stitches, pull tight to close hole.

Body worked from bottom upwards

Start with either a magic ring with 6dc worked into it or ch2, 6dc into 2nd chain from hook

Round 1 (inc) 2 dc in each dc (12dc)

Round 2 (inc) (1dc in next dc, 2dc in next dc) 6 times (18dc)

Round 3 (inc) (1dc in next 2dc, 2dc in next dc) 6 times (24dc)

Round 4 (inc) (1dc in next 3dc, 2 dc in next dc) 6 times (30dc)

Round 5 (inc) (1dc in next 4dc, 2 dc in next dc) 6 times (36dc)

Rounds 6 - 10 1dc into each dc around

Round 7 (dec) (1dc into each of next 4dc, dc2tog) 3 times, 1dc in each of next 18dc (33dc)

Round 8 1dc into each dc around

Round 9 (dec) (1dc into each of next 3dc, dc2tog) 3 times, 1dc in each of next 18dc (30dc)

Round 10 1dc into each dc around

Round 11 (dec) (1dc into each of next 2dc, dc2tog) 3 times, 1dc in each of next 18dc (27dc)

Round 12 1dc into each dc around

Round 13 (dec) (1dc into 1st dc, dc2tog) 3 times, 1dc in each of next 18dc (24dc)

Rounds 14 - 18 1dc into each dc around

Round 19 (dec) (1dc in each of next 2dc, dc2tog) 6 times (18dc)

Rounds 20 - 23 1dc into each dc around.

Finish off leaving a long length of yarn to attach body onto head. Stuff tightly. Sew securely to head.

Arms (make 2) worked from hands upwards

Start with either a magic ring with 6dc worked into it, or ch2, 6dc into 2nd chain from hook

Round 1 (inc) 2 dc in each dc (12dc)

Round 2 (inc) (1dc into each of next 3dc, 2dc in next dc) 3 times (15dc)

Round 3 1trCl in 1st dc, ch1 (thumb made), 1dc in each of next 14dc.

Round 4 1dc in trCl, miss ch1, 1dc in each of next 14dc.

Round 5 1dc into each dc around

Round 6 (dec) (1dc in each of next 3dc, dc2tog) 3 times (12dc)

Round 7 1dc into each dc around

Round 8 (dec)  (1dc in next dc, dc2tog) 4 times (8dc)

Stuff hand tightly.

Rounds 7 - 11 1dc into each dc around.

Loosely stuff arm, it should be floppy.

Rounds 12 -18 1dc into each dc around.

Do not add more stuffing. Pinch top of arm closed. Work 3dc across top of arm joining both sides together.

Finish off leaving long tail for sewing up. Sew the arms to the body close to the neck.

Legs (make 2) worked from feet upwards

Start with either a magic ring with 6dc worked into it, or ch2, 6dc into 2nd chain from hook

Round 1 (inc) 2 dc in each dc. (12dc)

Round 2 (inc) (1dc in next dc, 2dc in next dc) 6 times. (18dc)

Rounds 3 - 6  1dc into each dc around.

Round 7 (dec)  (1dc in next dc, dc2tog) 3 times, 1dc in each of next 9dc. (15dc)

Round 8 1dc into each dc around.

Round 9 (1dc in next dc, dc2tog) 3 times, 1dc in of next 6dc. (12dc)

Round 10 1dc into each dc around

Round 11 (1dc in next dc, dc2tog) 2 times, 1dc in of next 6dc. (10dc)

Round 12 1dc into each dc around

Round 13 1dc in each of 1st 2dc, dc2tog, 1dc in of next 6dc. (9dc)

Stuff foot tightly.

Rounds 14 - 21 1dc into each dc around

Finish off leaving a long length of yarn to sew leg onto body. Stuff lightly. Sew securely to body.

Tail

Start with either a magic ring with 6dc worked into it or ch2, 6dc into 2nd chain from hook

Round 1 (inc) 2 dc in each dc (12dc)

Round 2 (inc) (1dc in next dc, 2dc in next dc) 6 times (18dc)

Rounds 3 - 4 1dc into each dc around

Round 5 (dec) (1dc in next 1dc, dc2tog) 6  times (12dc)

Finish off leaving a long length of yarn. Stuff tail with toy stuffing. Sew the tail to the body.

Ears (make 4; 2x inner ear, 2x outer ear)

Row 1 (RS) Ch17, 1dc into 2nd ch from hook, 1dc in each of next 10ch, 1htr in each of next 4ch, 3htr in last ch, keeping RS facing turn ear to work into the other side of the chains: 1htr in each of next 4ch, 1dc in each dc to end. Turn. (22dc, 11htr = 33st)

Row 2 Ch1, 1dc in each of next 4dc, 1htr in each of next 7st, 1tr in each of next 3st, 2tr in each of next 5htr, 1tr in each of next 3st, 1htr in each of next 7st, 1dc in each dc to end. Turn.  (8dc, 14htr 16tr = 38st)

After finishing Row 2 on 2nd and 4th ears, do not cut yarn. Place inner ear and outer together with RS facing each other (I personally find the wrong side looks neater, you may wish to experiment for yourself!). Working into both inner and outer ear, dc together (this side is now RS). Finish off leaving a long length of yarn.

With new RS facing down, draw around the ear onto the back of your Liberty Tana Lawn cotton. Cut out, 4mm in from the line. Check it for size, trim some more if necessary. Top tip; draw around and cut each ear separately to avoid symmetry - your finished bunny will look more natural. Sew to new RS of ear using neat, small stitches. Pinch base of ear together and sew together using a few tight stitches. Using the photo as a guide sew the ears to the head.

Finishing Details

Using the photo as a guide, sew 2 buttons on for eyes. Cut the muzzle shape out of felt and sew using embroidery thread onto the head using small stitches. Sew a few satin stitches for the nose. Sew small stitches for the mouth. If you are feeling creative why not make your bunny a cute Liberty dress!

I hope you enjoyed following this pattern.

Look out for more free patterns at mrsdaftspaniel.blogspot.co.uk

Follow me on Instagram @mrsdaftspaniel  and tag your work with #mrsdaftspaniel