Agnes the Bunny - a free amigurumi crochet pattern

I am really happy to be able to share this amigurumi crochet pattern pattern with you here. I began writing this pattern in February 2016 in the hope of having it finalised in time for Easter that year (you can read my blog post from the time here). However, I got swept up in other projects, Easter and spring came and went and the project was put on hold. Earlier this year I became an auntie for the first time! I now have a little neice called Agnes and inspired by her beautiful name I decided to remake the bunny using alpaca wool, with a view to releasing the pattern in time for Easter, and here it is!

With her baby alpaca fur and her Liberty Tana Lawn cotton ears, Agnes is the softest, most luxurious bunny ever! She is crocheted using amigurumi techniques and all her cute little details are hand stitched after she has been sewn together.

This pattern is rated BEGINNER level.

You will need ...

1x 100g skein of Juniper Moon Farm extrafine baby alpaca in Bullrush (200m per 100g, DK weight)

10x10cm piece of Liberty Tana Lawn cotton in Felicite (for ears)

3mm crochet hook

scrap of contrast yarn or stitch marker

2 small, vintage shell buttons (for eyes)

green sewing thread (for eyes)

terracotta coloured embroidery thread (for sewing nose and mouth)

small piece of mint coloured wool felt (for mouth)

needle (for thread)

tapestry needle (for sewing body parts together)

toy stuffing

Finished Size and Tension

The stuffed bunny is 34cm from tip of ears to toes. Tension should be tight for making amigurumi, you may need to switch to a 2.5mm hook. The stuffed head should be about 6.5cm diameter (top tip; you could use the head as a tension guide).

Abbreviations (UK terms)

ch chain

ss slip stitch

dc double crochet

dc2tog double crochet 2 stitches together (see notes)

beg begin

rep repeat

dec decrease

inc increase

htr half treble

Tr treble

trCl treble cluster (see notes)

yo yarn over

RS right side

Notes

I have given instructions for both the magic loop method and the chain 2 method of starting - choose whichever you are most comfortable with. Here is a useful link to the magic loop method http://www.simplycrochetmag.co.uk/2014/10/20/make-magic-loop/

For the head pattern I have staggered the increases to avoid the hexagonal look which standard amigurumi methods create. I have not done so for the body because it is less noticeable.

Invisible decreases are another of the crochet techniques I like to use in my patterns because it creates such a smooth and flawless look. Where I have indicated dc2tog; insert hook through front loop only (flo) of 1st stitch to be decreased (2 loops on hook), do not yarn over, insert hook through flo of 2nd stitch to be decreased (3 loops on hook), yo, pull through 2 loops (2 loops left on hook) yo, pull through both loops. 1 invisible decrease made. If you are new to crochet and want to keep things simple, dc2tog in the standard way. Here’s a link to blog post with photo tutorial - it uses the US term single crochet to describe the UK double crochet stitch but the photos are so clear this shouldn’t matter http://www.allaboutami.com/invisibledecrease/

A treble cluster (trCl) is used to create the thumb; a group of 3 trebles joined closely at the top. To make a trCl work each of the trebles up to the last yo, pull through needed to complete it (4 loops on hook), yo, pull through all loops on hook. 1trCl made.

With the exception of the ears, which are worked in rows, all the other parts are crocheted in the round in the amigurumi style (ie. no ch1/ ss at the beginning of rounds). All the body parts are made separately and sewn together.

I hope you enjoy following this pattern. Look out for more free patterns at mrsdaftspaniel.blogspot.co.uk Follow me on Instagram @mrsdaftspaniel  and tag your work with #mrsdaftspaniel

Pattern

Head worked from nose to back of head

Start with either a magic ring with 6dc worked into it or ch2, 6dc into 2nd chain from hook

Round 1 (inc) 2 dc in each dc. (12dc)

Round 2 (inc) (1dc in next dc, 2dc in next dc) 6 times. (18dc)

Round 3 (inc) 1dc in 1st dc, (2dc in next dc, 1dc in each of next 2dc) 5 times, 2dc in next dc, 1dc in last dc. (24dc)

Round 4 (inc) (1dc in each of next 3dc, 2 dc in next dc) 6 times. (30dc)

Round 5 (inc) 1dc in 1st 2dc, (2dc in next dc, 1dc in each of next 4dc) 5 times, 2dc in next dc, 1dc in each of next 2dc. (36dc)

Round 6 (inc) (1dc in each of next 5dc, 2 dc in next dc) 6  times. (42dc)

Round 7 (inc) 1dc in 1st 3dc, (1dc in next 6dc, 2 dc in next dc) 5 times 2dc in next dc, 1dc in each of next 3dc. (48dc)

Rounds 8 -10 1dc in each dc around.

Round 11 (dec) (1dc in each of next 6dc, dc2tog) 6 times. (42dc)

Round 12 (dec) 1dc in each of next 2dc, dc2tog, (1dc in each of next 5dc, dc2tog) 5 times, 1dc in each of next 3dc. (36dc)

Round 13 (dec) (1dc in each of next 4dc, dc2tog) 6  times (30dc)

Round 14 (dec) 1dc in 1st dc, dc2tog, (1dc in each of next 3dc, dc2tog) 5 times, 1dc in each of next 2dc. (24dc)

Round 15 (dec) 1dc in each of next 2dc, dc2tog) 6 times (18dc)

Stuff head with toy stuffing.

Round 16 (dec) (1dc in next 1dc, dc2tog) 6  times (12dc)

Add a little more toy stuffing if necessary.

Round 17 (dec) dc2tog around (6dc)

Finish off leaving long tail for sewing up. Pull through stitch on hook to finish off. Using tapestry needle, weave in and out of remaining stitches, pull tight to close hole.

Body worked from bottom upwards

Start with either a magic ring with 6dc worked into it or ch2, 6dc into 2nd chain from hook

Round 1 (inc) 2 dc in each dc (12dc)

Round 2 (inc) (1dc in next dc, 2dc in next dc) 6 times (18dc)

Round 3 (inc) (1dc in next 2dc, 2dc in next dc) 6 times (24dc)

Round 4 (inc) (1dc in next 3dc, 2 dc in next dc) 6 times (30dc)

Round 5 (inc) (1dc in next 4dc, 2 dc in next dc) 6 times (36dc)

Rounds 6 - 10 1dc into each dc around

Round 7 (dec) (1dc into each of next 4dc, dc2tog) 3 times, 1dc in each of next 18dc (33dc)

Round 8 1dc into each dc around

Round 9 (dec) (1dc into each of next 3dc, dc2tog) 3 times, 1dc in each of next 18dc (30dc)

Round 10 1dc into each dc around

Round 11 (dec) (1dc into each of next 2dc, dc2tog) 3 times, 1dc in each of next 18dc (27dc)

Round 12 1dc into each dc around

Round 13 (dec) (1dc into 1st dc, dc2tog) 3 times, 1dc in each of next 18dc (24dc)

Rounds 14 - 18 1dc into each dc around

Round 19 (dec) (1dc in each of next 2dc, dc2tog) 6 times (18dc)

Rounds 20 - 23 1dc into each dc around.

Finish off leaving a long length of yarn to attach body onto head. Stuff tightly. Sew securely to head.

Arms (make 2) worked from hands upwards

Start with either a magic ring with 6dc worked into it, or ch2, 6dc into 2nd chain from hook

Round 1 (inc) 2 dc in each dc (12dc)

Round 2 (inc) (1dc into each of next 3dc, 2dc in next dc) 3 times (15dc)

Round 3 1trCl in 1st dc, ch1 (thumb made), 1dc in each of next 14dc.

Round 4 1dc in trCl, miss ch1, 1dc in each of next 14dc.

Round 5 1dc into each dc around

Round 6 (dec) (1dc in each of next 3dc, dc2tog) 3 times (12dc)

Round 7 1dc into each dc around

Round 8 (dec)  (1dc in next dc, dc2tog) 4 times (8dc)

Stuff hand tightly.

Rounds 7 - 11 1dc into each dc around.

Loosely stuff arm, it should be floppy.

Rounds 12 -18 1dc into each dc around.

Do not add more stuffing. Pinch top of arm closed. Work 3dc across top of arm joining both sides together.

Finish off leaving long tail for sewing up. Sew the arms to the body close to the neck.

Legs (make 2) worked from feet upwards

Start with either a magic ring with 6dc worked into it, or ch2, 6dc into 2nd chain from hook

Round 1 (inc) 2 dc in each dc. (12dc)

Round 2 (inc) (1dc in next dc, 2dc in next dc) 6 times. (18dc)

Rounds 3 - 6  1dc into each dc around.

Round 7 (dec)  (1dc in next dc, dc2tog) 3 times, 1dc in each of next 9dc. (15dc)

Round 8 1dc into each dc around.

Round 9 (1dc in next dc, dc2tog) 3 times, 1dc in of next 6dc. (12dc)

Round 10 1dc into each dc around

Round 11 (1dc in next dc, dc2tog) 2 times, 1dc in of next 6dc. (10dc)

Round 12 1dc into each dc around

Round 13 1dc in each of 1st 2dc, dc2tog, 1dc in of next 6dc. (9dc)

Stuff foot tightly.

Rounds 14 - 21 1dc into each dc around

Finish off leaving a long length of yarn to sew leg onto body. Stuff lightly. Sew securely to body.

Tail

Start with either a magic ring with 6dc worked into it or ch2, 6dc into 2nd chain from hook

Round 1 (inc) 2 dc in each dc (12dc)

Round 2 (inc) (1dc in next dc, 2dc in next dc) 6 times (18dc)

Rounds 3 - 4 1dc into each dc around

Round 5 (dec) (1dc in next 1dc, dc2tog) 6  times (12dc)

Finish off leaving a long length of yarn. Stuff tail with toy stuffing. Sew the tail to the body.

Ears (make 4; 2x inner ear, 2x outer ear)

Row 1 (RS) Ch17, 1dc into 2nd ch from hook, 1dc in each of next 10ch, 1htr in each of next 4ch, 3htr in last ch, keeping RS facing turn ear to work into the other side of the chains: 1htr in each of next 4ch, 1dc in each dc to end. Turn. (22dc, 11htr = 33st)

Row 2 Ch1, 1dc in each of next 4dc, 1htr in each of next 7st, 1tr in each of next 3st, 2tr in each of next 5htr, 1tr in each of next 3st, 1htr in each of next 7st, 1dc in each dc to end. Turn.  (8dc, 14htr 16tr = 38st)

After finishing Row 2 on 2nd and 4th ears, do not cut yarn. Place inner ear and outer together with RS facing each other (I personally find the wrong side looks neater, you may wish to experiment for yourself!). Working into both inner and outer ear, dc together (this side is now RS). Finish off leaving a long length of yarn.

With new RS facing down, draw around the ear onto the back of your Liberty Tana Lawn cotton. Cut out, 4mm in from the line. Check it for size, trim some more if necessary. Top tip; draw around and cut each ear separately to avoid symmetry - your finished bunny will look more natural. Sew to new RS of ear using neat, small stitches. Pinch base of ear together and sew together using a few tight stitches. Using the photo as a guide sew the ears to the head.

Finishing Details

Using the photo as a guide, sew 2 buttons on for eyes. Cut the muzzle shape out of felt and sew using embroidery thread onto the head using small stitches. Sew a few satin stitches for the nose. Sew small stitches for the mouth. If you are feeling creative why not make your bunny a cute Liberty dress!

I hope you enjoyed following this pattern.

Look out for more free patterns at mrsdaftspaniel.blogspot.co.uk

Follow me on Instagram @mrsdaftspaniel  and tag your work with #mrsdaftspaniel

Yarn Review - King Cole merino blend DK

Today I thought I would continue with another yarn review - this time King Cole merino blend DK. These review posts are not sponsored by the wool companies, it's simply me, adding my thoughts and opinions on the yarns I like to use.

I have used King Cole merino blend DK for a wide variety of projects, from large blankets to teenie amigurumi to baby cardigans - it's a fantastic all purpose wool! Not all the yarn, but a significant amount of it, was King Cole merino blend DK in my Sophie's Universe Blanket (pictured below).

One of the reasons I love this wool is the amazing range of colours it is available in - there are 45 different colours ensuring there is a colour for everything and a colour for everyone! I enjoy making and designing amigurumi in bright colour combinations and I like choosing just one colour to make hats and baby cardigans. My most recent crochet project (and the prompt for this blog post) uses the gorgeous mustard colour!

King Cole merino blend DK is a superwash wool making it ideal for baby and toddler garments. It's nice and soft too which is lovely to work with and lovely to wear because it is not itchy. There are 104 metres in a 50g ball which works really well when pulled from the centre and worked from the inside out. King Cole merino blend DK is widely available online and in many local yarn shops. 

The friendly amigurumi monster called Malunna (pictured above) was designed and crocheted in King Cole merino blend DK. I love this colour combination - blues and oranges have always been a favourite of mine. If you are interested, the free pattern for this monster is available in my Ravelry store here. 

Have you used this wool before? What do you think of it? I am interested to know your opinions - please pop a comment below xx

Fields of Lavender Cardigan - the design process

Over the last few weeks I have been working on various crocheted cardigan designs, with most of my focus being on the Fields of Lavender Cardigan, pictured below in 0-3 month size. This new design came about in an unusual way for me, it was suggested by one of my pattern testers, Jill Porter. 

Jill had tested out the pattern for my Fields of Wheat Hat (above - photo used with kind permission) in a beautiful purple coloured yarn and when she posted it online she received comments about how the wheat stalks looked like lavender and suggestions for designing a cardigan using the same motif. You can see Jill's pretty Instagram photos here. You can see my photos of this hat design in my last blog post.

After doing a few calculations (sighing once again at how much maths is needed in the crochet design process!) I was ready to start and using spare white pure wool in superwash DK I began to turn my hat design into the flatter format required for a cardigan. One thing which really pleases me about crocheting baby garments is the speed in which they are finished, I quickly had a completed design that I was pretty much happy with. There were a few niggles that I wanted to sort, the collar line wasn't quite right for starters, but overall I was satisfied and ready to embark on the next version using lavender coloured wool.

The lavender design is crocheted in King Cole merino blend DK which I have chosen for both its superwash qualities and because it is warm and cosy for a baby to wear. On this second cardigan I worked the design in the next size up (3-6 months), so that I will have a variety of sizes to offer when the pattern is published.

All the cardigan needs now is buttons, which sadly I can't buy in my town (I have tried the button boxes in the local charity shops, but no luck this time) so the buttons will have to wait until I am next off out on an adventure. The next steps in the design process are pattern testing and photography, both of which I am looking forward to!